On a sunny Friday morning I visited the Katherine Mansfield House and Garden for the first time, despite my having lived within stone-throwing distance for several years. The house is now a museum dedicated to Katherine’s life and works.
I soon discovered that there was a lot more to Katherine than I previously realised. Born into a wealthy, middle class New Zealand family, she would eventually rebel against the claustrophobic rigidity of colonial Edwardian society. As soon as she came of age, she moved back to London, where her family had lived for a few years. Her modernist thinking and love of writing soon brought her into contact with the likes of Virginia Woolf and other members of the so-called Bloomsbury Group of artists and writers, who were known for their liberality and promiscuity.
Like the Bloomsbury members, Katherine was talented, spirited, independent and uninhibited. She enjoyed a string of affairs with both men and women. When not in London she spent time in Menton, France, and in Switzerland where her cousin Mary Annette Beauchamp (the writer Elizabeth von Arnim) owned a chalet. It’s not hard to see how much Katherine drew on her life experiences in these places, and on her memories of her early life in New Zealand, for her short stories and novels.
Visiting the home of someone famous can make you feel closer to them. I remember having the same sensation in England when I visited Charles Dickens’ home in Broadstairs, and Agatha Christie’s summer home near Dartmouth. Passing through rooms that they spent time in, seeing their desks and pens that they would have used, looking at their family photos, is an intimate experience. In some ways it feels like an invasion of their privacy, but it also gives a great sense of privilege.
Katherine’s early life
Katherine was born Kathleen Mansfield Beauchamp in 1888, not long after the family had moved into this newly-built house at 11 Tinakori Road, Wellington. Her father Harold was an up-and-coming businessman who would eventually become the Chairman of the Bank of New Zealand. Along with her siblings, Katherine would have enjoyed a very comfortable childhood here, before the family moved to an even larger house when she was 5 years old.
The young Katherine would have been nursed in the Night Nursery, while her older siblings would have slept in the other, interconnected bedrooms. The night nursery and one other bedroom are furnished as they would have been in her time. Another bedroom has been adapted for use as an exhibition space. At the time of my visit, there was a display of amazing dolls’ houses – something that Katherine would no doubt have loved, as she was very fond of dolls and dolls’ houses.
Victorian New Zealand style
Anyone with an interest in interior decoration will enjoy a visit to the house. A recent substantial restoration uncovered remnants of period wallpapers, which were copied to reproduce those which appear on the walls of the house today. The influence of Japanese art and the Art Nouveau style, which were fashionable when the house was built in the late 1880s, can be seen throughout the house.
As is often the case with Victorian homes, the decor and furniture of the house seem dark when you first enter. I remember my maternal grandparents’ home being the same. The scullery and kitchen are, naturally, very simply furnished and decorated. It’s only when you step through the servery area into the dining room that things become more colourful. Here, the family would have entertained visitors and the room is dressed to impress.
After passing through into the drawing room, which is also beautifully decorated and furnished, visitors can head up the impressive staircase to the bedrooms.
The master bedroom has been set out as a reading area. On the wall is a fascinating timeline of events in Katherine’s life. It was by reading through this timeline that I fully appreciated all the works she had written, all the places she had lived in and visited, and the many friends and lovers who were part of her short life.
A life less ordinary
What I really enjoyed as I passed through the various different rooms, were the exerpts from Katherine’s works and letters which have been placed around the walls. These have been thoughtfully chosen to bring out an aspect of life that would have taken place in a particular room. For example, in the Night Nursery, there is a quotation from her story ‘Prelude’, in which one of the main characters, Kezia, refers lovingly to her grandmother. We are told, in the written commentary panel about the room, that Katherine was very fond of her own grandmother, who would often spend time with her in the nursery. In fact, reading ‘Prelude’ is almost like reading about events that took place in this very house.
Along with the quotations, you can also see family possessions throughout the rooms, including photographs, books and an old typewriter which belonged to Katherine’s father Harold. He supported her financially throughout her life, even though he did not always approve of her lifestyle, nor her writing!
You can buy copies of Katherine’s works at the museum, and some other related books of interest. There’s also a small selection of cards and gifts suitable for book-lovers.
There is no cafe on site, but a short 10-15 minute walk will take you to Tinakori Village shops, where there is an excellent pub called the Shepherd’s Arms and a selection of cafes and restaurants.
This neighbourhood, which is called Thorndon – or Pipitea in Maori – is one of the oldest, most historic and most attractive suburbs in Wellington. Being close to the CBD, it is home to the Prime Minister’s residence and various embassies and ambassadorial residences.
The Wellington Botanic Gardens also start here – the main entrance is on Glenmore Street. Although the gardens cover 25 hectares, the Thorndon side includes the Lady Norwood Rose Garden, the cafe and the Begonia House. It’s a lovely place for a picnic, lunch or afternoon tea on a sunny day.
Travel more in your own backyard
I have been meaning to visit the Katherine Mansfield museum for many years. But, as is so often the case, places of interest in your own town often get pushed down the bucket list in favour of more exotic, far-flung destinations. We can visit our own local places any time, or so we think. The trouble is, we often don’t get around to it at all. I lived in Thorndon for several years, and somehow never found the time to take that 15 minute walk down Tinakori Road! In some ways it was worth the wait, because I gained the advantage of the restoration and all the new information which this brought to light.
Now I’m keen to read more of Katherine’s works. If I gain any further insight from doing so, I will update this post.
If you enjoyed this article and are interested in literature, you might enjoy my post on Four classic British travel books on Spain. One of the authors I discuss – Gerald Brenan – was linked to the Bloomsbury writers. Another, Laurie Lee, encountered a Bloomsbury acquaintance on his travels. Both authors faced similar struggles to find their place as modernists in a conservative, rigid society. Inevitably, they, too, ended up making their escape.
© Coconut Lands. Not to be reproduced without permission.
VISIT OUR TRAVELLERS’ STORE – UNLOCKED BOX