6 reasons Why Lisbon is the perfect slow travel destination
Enjoy Lisbon’s waterfront, food, wine and neighbourhoods – but give the custard tarts a miss.
There are cities that you pass through, and cities that stay with you. Lisbon is firmly in the second category. I first came here in the 1990s to study Portuguese. I’ve been back several times since, and Lisbon only gets better.
Why Lisbon Rewards Slow Travel
Lisbon is not a city to be rushed. It straddles seven hills, which slow down your pace naturally! – and each neighbourhood has its own very different feel. There are some steep streets to navigate, but if the way up looks daunting, don’t worry – there’s probably a tram to take you.
Plan for at least three to four days to do justice to the main sights. But honestly? You could spend any amount of time here and it wouldn’t be enough. Here are my six favourite things about Lisbon.
1. The waterfront
If I had to choose one thing I love most about Lisbon, it would be the waterfront. I like to stroll along the edge of the Tagus and stop by at one of the bars to sip a vinho verde and watch the ferries coming and going.
The light in the late afternoon turns everything to gold. And the river, stretching along towards the great 25 de Abril suspension bridge that echoes San Francisco’s Golden Gate, invites you simply to sit and contemplate the extraordinary history of exploration that played out along these very banks.
Alternatively, you can take a harbour cruise past the bridge and the historic buildings at Belém, such as the tower and the impressive Jerónimos Monastery. Some cruises offer snacks and drinks.
2. Atmospheric neighbourhoods
Bairro Alto is my favourite neighbourhood and where I’d love to live, if I were fortunate enough to spend extended time in Lisbon. Its elevated position gives you some of the finest views in the city, including from the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara (see top picture). I love its ‘city village’ feel and artisan shops. To get there, take the Glória Funicular from Restauradores Square, or ride the Bica Funicular from the waterfront.
Chiado and its neighbour, the Baixa, are the downtown neighbourhoods leading to the expansive Praça do Comercio, which faces the waterfront. Rebuilt after an earthquake struck the city in 1755, Chiado has elegant streets arranged in a grid system. I love strolling around the boutique shops and cafes.
Alfama, Lisbon’s ancient Moorish quarter, is undeniably beautiful. Topped by the São Jorge Castle, its narrow alleys stretch downhill towards the waterfront. Views from Alfama over the city and the Tagus are spectacular, and the history of this neighbourhood – Moorish, Visigoth, Roman – gives real depth to your understanding of Lisbon’s layered past.
That said, Alfama has become very popular with tourists seeking out its famous Fado houses and restaurants – and it can be hard to find truly authentic versions of either. (Fado is a melancholy style of music that originated here in the 1820s and is, like custard tarts, something that is not to everyone’s taste). My advice would be to seek advice from a local if you want to find a genuine cultural experience that is not over-priced and over-hyped.
Belém is worth visiting to see the Tower, the Monastery, and Lisbon’s maritime heritage. It’s a short tram or bus ride from the centre and is worth a leisurely half-day.
3. The Gulbenkian Foundation
The Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian occupies a 7.5 hectare site between São Sebastião and Praça de Espanha. It has a museum, art gallery and beautiful gardens. This cultural complex is a haven of peace in the city.
The museum has been closed for renovation but is due to re-open in the summer of 2026. Its collections include Egyptian antiquities, Islamic art, French decorative arts and Impressionist paintings. I sometimes went there for morning coffee and a chat with my Portuguese teacher to escape our classroom for a while.
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4. The trams
Lisbon’s iconic yellow and white trams are a feature of the city. They rattle and trundle along the streets, swing around corners, ascend impossibly steep hills and provide a great transit option for both commuters and visitors. I love them!
There are two types of trams. The old Remodelado trams are the vintage ones, while the modern ones are the Articulados. Polite convention is to enter the Remodelado trams at the front and exit at the back (or you might be glared at).
The tram network is run by a company called Carris and consists of 6 different lines. Route E28 is like a city tour, taking you through Alfama, Graça, Baixa and Estrela. E15 runs from Cais do Sodré to Belém. Route E28 is very popular, so aim to catch it early or late in the day to avoid crowds.
The Hills Tramcar Tour is a private, premium tram service run by a subsidiary of Carris. It serves the Castle and other tourist spots and requires its own separate ticket, though this ticket also gives access to the public Carris trams. This option is well worth considering if you want to visit Alfama as it provides a less crowded alternative to the E28. The route starts in the Praça do Comercio.
5. Food and wine
I thoroughly enjoyed the food in Lisbon, especially the fish and seafood. Portugal is famous for its sardines, of course – even the tins can become collectors’ items. But freshly-grilled sardines, served with bread and a simple salad, make for a delicious lunch and can be enjoyed in many cafés. On the feast day of Santo António in June, impromptu barbecue stalls are set up around the city and the delicious aroma of grilled sardine – sardinha assada – fills the streets.
Seafood rice – arroz de marisco – was another favourite I discovered during my student days in Lisbon. It’s a delicious rice dish with clams, mussels and prawns or crab flavoured with garlic and chopped coriander stalks. I absolutely loved it.
And then there are the famous pastéis de nata – custard tarts. To be perfectly honest I’ve never understood the obsession with these. I find them bland and tasteless. But I mention them because I know many people love them. For anyone who shares my controversial opinion, I have a fabulous alternative to recommend: Queijadas de Sintra. These are delicious mini cheescakes housed in a thin pastry case. They come in flavours such as lemon, orange and coconut and are mouthwatering and addictive. Beware of supermarket packaged queijadas, which are absolutely nothing like the real thing.
Portugal has many wonderful wines, the most famous of which come from the Douro Valley, like Vinho Verde. But some excellent wines from regions around Lisbon, such as Torres Vedras, Colares and Carcavelos, are well worth trying. You can look out for them in restaurants or take a tasting tour. Adega Mãe winery in Torres Vedras, for instance, welcomes visitors to taste their award-winning wines. Try their Dory red, white and rosé.
High on my list for my next visit is the Time Out Market near the waterfront at Cais do Sodré. It offers an amazing collocation of the city’s best chefs and producers under one roof.
6. Easy escapes
Being a slow traveller, one of my top qualities for any destination to have is great public transport. Lisbon is blessed in this regard, so that getting out of the city for a day is easy. Here are some of my recommended days out.
Sintra is a pretty town situated in a forested micro-climate in the mountains north-west of Lisbon. Most noteworthy, other than the aforementioned queijadas, are its fairytale palaces. You can visit the Pena Palace and the Castelo dos Mouros, but just to warn you that this requires a 55-minute steep uphill hike – not a comfortable thing to do in hot weather. An alternative is the 434 tourist bus, which is cheaper than a taxi or tuk-tuk.
Sintra is a short train ride away from Rossio station in Lisbon. When you arrive, you can pick up the 434 from outside Sintra station, which will save you the 1.5 km walk into town.
Ericeira, reachable by bus from Campo Grande bus station, is a whitewashed Atlantic fishing village on the Silver Coast, north of Lisbon. It’s become a favoured destination for surfers but has managed to retain its soul. Even if you don’t surf, you can still enjoy walks on the beach and admire the huge Atlantic rollers. Read my separate post on Ericeira for more details.
Cascais is a graceful coastal town around 31 km north of Lisbon, easily reached by regular train services from Cais do Sodré station. It has a historic fortress known as the Cidadela de Cascais; a delightful promenade, good restaurants and a gentler pace of life than Lisbon. It’s a favourite weekend escape for Lisboetas.
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Getting around
As you may have gathered, getting around in Lisbon is relatively easy. There are good bus services, trams and trains. There’s also a metro system that connects the airport and various neighbourhoods to the city centre. There are four lines: blue, yellow, green and red. The airport is at the end of the red line. To reach the main downtown area, typically you will need to change to the green line at Alameda or the blue line at San Sebastião.
If you intend to do a fair amount of travelling around to see the sights, a 24-hour public transit pass is a cost-effective option. It costs around €7.25 and provides unlimited rides across trams, funiculars, buses, and the metro. The pass is available at metro stations and is loaded onto the Navegante re-usable card, which costs €0.50 to buy.
Like all big cities, Lisbon does have its pickpockets, who are particularly active on crowded trams and buses – so look after your bags and valuables when travelling.
Where to Stay
Lisbon has some glorious hotel options in the city centre and nearby suburbs. Many of them offer free breakfast and also drinks and snacks during the day. In my experience, Lisbon hotel breakfasts are the best I’ve ever encountered anywhere. We are affiliates of Booking.com and the ‘book now’ links below are affiliate links. If you use them, there’s no extra cost to you but we gain a small commission which helps us keep this site going.
Avenida Palace
This amazing hotel near Rossio Square takes 4th place in my 19 top bucket list hotels. Unassuming from the outside, it’s stunning inside, especially the public rooms. Great location and wonderful breakfast.
Heritage Hotel Liberdade
The standout feature of this lovely hotel is the breakfast – served until midday – and the complimentary coffee, tea, wine and nibbles offered in the lobby lounge bar all day for guests. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here.
Lumiares Hotel and Spa
This stylish hotel, a former 18th century palace, is located in the Bairro Alto. It’s known for its rooftop bar with incredible views. Rooms are apartment-style and designed to feel like a home from home. Choose from a simple studio or go for luxury with the Penthouse.
When to go
Lisbon is one of those European cities suffering from over-tourism, so I strongly recommend avoiding peak holiday seasons. High summer can also be uncomfortably hot. Shoulder seasons are best.
In late May and early June, the grand boulevards like Avenida da Liberdade and Avenida da República are full of jacaranda blossom. This is a lovely time of year to visit.
Lisbon is also beautiful at Christmas time. Early December, before the festive rush, is a great time to be in the city. Hotels are cosy and full of sparkly decorations, as are the streets and squares.
Final thoughts
Lisbon has so much to offer – culture, history, wonderful architecture and great food and wine. Not to mention warm weather and good transport. When it gets too hot in the city, you can take a break on the coast where the cooling Atlantic breezes blow.
For more posts on Portugal, including Porto city, Port wine tasting, Ericeira on the Silver Coast and Caldas da Rainha, visit our Europe page.
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