Samoa – 8 fun and relaxing activities for slow travellers

This Pacific Island paradise is an undiscovered gem.

If idyllic palm-fringed, almost-empty beaches and turquoise lagoons full of colourful tropical fish add up to your dream holiday, you’ll love Samoa. Less developed than other island nations of Oceania, Samoa is also less familiar to travellers.

Why we chose to visit Samoa

We live in a neighbourhood of Wellington, New Zealand, which has a large Samoan community – so much so that they have their own church in our village. We love to see families, dressed in their traditional Sunday costume, gathering on the church steps and greeting their friends. Samoans are very friendly, social people. This lovely community inspired us to want to visit their islands.

We therefore booked a short break in September 2024, just before the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM) was due to be held. Heads of state, including King Charles, were expected to attend. The islands were therefore preparing to show their best face to the eminent visitors and the world’s media. Every village had been given a grant to smarten up its gardens and buildings – and the communities were hard at work doing just that.

Our visit took place amid all this mounting excitement and anticipation! Here are our recommended top 8 activities for slow travellers.

1. Stroll along beautiful deserted beaches

If you’re used to the crowded beaches of Benidorm or Bondi, Samoa will provide you with a very different experience. The main island of Upolu has some beautiful picture-postcard wild beaches, as does the less-populated neighbouring island of Sava’ii.

One example is Vavau beach, on the south coast of Upolu. It’s an expansive stretch of sand dotted with islets. Fales – circular thatched huts – are provided along the beach front to offer shelter and seating. Access to the beach costs 10 Tala, payable in cash, but it’s well worth it.

We walked eastwards along the coast from Vavau to our resort, about half an hour, and had this paradise all to ourselves.

2. Bathe in a lagoon or cave pool

The coral reefs surrounding the islands of Samoa form a protective barrier that gives some of the beaches a lagoon-like quality. This provides a calm and (mostly) safe swimming environment, as well as a colourful biosphere. Those who enjoy snorkelling will love Samoa’s lagoons.

For the more adventurous, cave pools such as the Sua Trench provide a unique bathing experience. Swimmers descend a precipitous ladder and either jump from the platform or continue all the way to the ladder’s end. Needless to say, I was content to view the action from above! An alternative, and rather more accessible, freshwater cave pool is located at Piula on the east coast of Upolu, next to a historic Methodist chapel.

3. Learn about Samoan life and culture

Samoan culture revolves around community, family and faith. We found the Samoan people to be warm, friendly, welcoming and fun-loving. They love music and singing; staff serving meals at our resort would often join in with any song playing on the radio, without self-consciousness. On our day of departure, one staff member spontaneously called a group together to sing a farewell song to us, which was a rather emotional moment!

Village homes are modest but colourful. Alongside the main dwelling, each house also has its own meeting house – a pavilion-like structure that is open to the elements. This is used for social events. You can tell which meeting house belongs to which main house by its shared colour scheme. Some families also have an external cook house in their garden, with easy access to their vegetable patch and fruit trees.

Village life is communal and everyone works together for the benefit of the community. Competition is fierce for the title of Most Beautiful Village, so lots of hard work goes into maintaining the gardens, churches and other civic buildings. We noticed how everyday objects are often re-purposed for decorations, such as old tyres which are painted and turned into colourful plant pots.

Our resort hosted a fiafia night of song, dance, ritual, traditional food and drink. A little touristy perhaps, but great fun nevertheless!

Everyone took part in an ‘ava ceremony, during which a cup of ‘ava is passed and shared around the group. After tasting, the drinker declares ‘manuia!‘ – whcih means ‘be happy’. ‘Ava is made from the root of a shrub called piper methysticum.

4. Learn the art of weaving

One of the demonstrations at the cultural evening was of weaving techniques. Dried palm leaves were used to make baskets and traditional headgear. Following the demonstration, guests were invited to attend a weaving class the following day and attempt to make their own.

Whilst these classes are great fun, it’s worth checking customs regulations in your home country before you attempt to take your handicrafts back home with you. Untreated plant products are usually considered to be a biosecurity risk and may be confiscated. The same applies to souvenirs or objects you buy, many of which are made from organic material like coconut, wood or shells.

5. Visit Villa Vailima, Robert Louis Stevenson’s former home

Just outside Apia is the village of Vailima, a desirable neighbourhood where embassies and high commissions are located. Back in the 19th century, Edinburgh-born author Robert Louis Stevenson purchased land in the village and built a grand home for himself and his family. That home, Villa Vailima, is now a museum.

We took a guided tour of the house with one of the museum’s very knowledgeable staff, who explained how Louis, as he was known to his family, was much loved by the locals – despite the Stevensons’ relative wealth and privilege. He was clearly a ‘man of the people’.

Although much of the furniture on display is reproduction, there are some amazing original items – such as a huge safe – and many fascinating old photographs of the family. Those who have time can make the hike up the hill behind the house to Louis’s grave. Unfortunately we did not have time for this, but anyone considering doing the hike is recommended to start out early in the morning, before the heat of the day sets in.

If you’re interested in Louis and his time in Samoa, read more in my post Writers’ retreats – 8 beautiful places, 8 incredible authors.

6. Go shopping in Apia

Samoa’s capital, a busy port city, is well worth a visit. It has some pleasant shopping malls to stroll around, where you can buy your colourful shirts, dresses and lavalavas (the Polynesian skirts worn by men).

For those who enjoy markets, Fugalei Market – the largest in Samoa – has extensive stalls selling local produce, handicrafts and clothing. The much smaller Savalalo Flea Market, near the main bus station, also sells handicrafts.

There are plenty of good food outlets within the markets, and restaurants and cafés in the central area. But we decided to follow the recommendations of our driver, choosing Bistro Tatau for our lunch stop and Caffè Milani for a follow-up coffee. We were not disappointed – both were excellent. For more details on these experiences, and our accommodation, see our Tripadvisor reviews.

7. Enjoy Samoan food and drink

Samoan cuisine makes the most of foods that are sourced locally: coconuts, starfruit, apples, bananas, pineapples, pumpkin, taro (a type of root vegetable) and – of course – fish and seafood, which are excellent. Most village homes have their own chickens and pigs. We also spotted some cows and sheep.

Fortunately I adore coconut, which finds its way into many Samoan dishes, drinks and cocktails. At our cultural evening we were shown how fresh coconut cream is hand-made, by squeezing the flesh through a tauaga (a fibrous net sourced from a plant) into a bowl. The cream was then used to make oka, raw fish marinated in the sweet mix. We were all given a sample of the finished dish and it was fabulous!

Aside from marinating in coconut, another traditional cooking method is the umu, an above-ground oven of hot stones. The latter are heated in an open fire before the food, wrapped in banana leaves, is cooked on them. This gives the food a smoky flavour.

8. Visit the island of Savai’i

Upolu might be the main island of Samoa, but Savai’i is the largest. Richly forested and teeming with bird life, it’s often referred to as ‘the real Samoa’. Attractions include waterfalls, blow holes, caves and lava fields. Some visitors choose to take their whole holiday in Savai’i in order to truly ‘get away from it all’.

Ferries run daily from Apia to Salelologa in Savai’i. The journey takes 60-90 minutes, depending on conditions. The vessels are car ferries and taking your rental car on board is fine.

Practicalities

When and how to go

Samoa’s tropical climate is warm and humid. The driest season is from June to September and the wettest is from November to April. January and February, the peak school summer holiday months in the southern hemisphere, are very busy and best avoided if you can. We travelled in early September, which was a very pleasant time to be there – although see ‘a word about the weather’ below!

Auckland, New Zealand, is the main gateway for flights to Apia. You can also fly from Sydney or Brisbane in Australia, Nadi in Fiji or Honolulu in the USA.

How to visit Samoa respectfully

Samoan society is quite conservative, so it’s wise to dress modestly when visiting towns and villages. Swimwear is acceptable on the beach or by streams and waterfalls, but anywhere else it’s likely to be frowned upon.

While English is widely spoken, especially in the capital, not everyone speaks it fluently. You can try a few phrases in Samoan, such as talofa – hello, or fa’afetai – thank you.

When visiting a beach, cave or waterfall, it’s not uncommon to have to pay an entry fee to those who have customary land rights. These range from 10 to 15 tala, and must be paid in cash, so it’s good to have some notes on hand when you go touring. ATMs are available at Faleolo airport and in central Apia, but are few and far between outside the capital. If you’re short of cash, resorts can sometimes help you out and add the cost to your bill.

Evening prayer curfew usually takes place between 6 and 7pm. It’s best to avoid walking through villages at this time. 

A word about the weather

During our early September stay, the temperature ranged from 25 to 30 degrees celsius. Humidity was high, often leaving a fine mist over our possessions. Light showers were not uncommon, and were often welcome. The wind blew constantly, which we discovered was a feature of the south coast. However, on our last night, the winds blew up into a severe weather event that was quite scary! Our hosts said they had not seen anything like it in 19 years.

Admittedly we were staying in an exposed villa on a headland, but the wind that night was something else (it reminded me of the London hurricane of 1987). It lashed the rain against our louvre windows with such force that the water got through and began to flood the room. Outside, we heard crashes as objects toppled and branches broke.

In the morning, the power was off – and our hosts said that their calls to the power line companies were going unanswered (luckily they had their own backup generator). A large floating mass of debris and vegetation had gathered in the bay, and staff were busy cleaning up the mess around the resort.

So all we can say is, be prepared for anything! Hopefully this event was a one-in-19-year scenario.

Getting around

Apia has a bus station from which you can travel to various villages on colourful retro-style buses. The areas they serve are limited, however. In the south of Upolu where we were staying, there were no buses and only one taxi company served our resort. So, depending on where you choose to stay, bear this in mind if you’re not planning to hire a car. We saw nobody whatsoever riding bicycles, mopeds or motorcycles. Roads are narrow and not always well-maintained, especially in the interior.

If you stay at a resort and they offer transfers, therefore, and you’re not planning to hire a car, take advantage of that offer.

Some resorts arrange tours for guests. Ours took us on an ad-hoc day tour to Apia, Villa Vailima and some other attractions along the way. With just four of us in a minibus, this was a great way to see more of the island and learn about local culture and customs from our driver.

Health and safety

In addition to the weather warnings already mentioned, Samoa is on the ‘Pacific ring of fire’ which means that earthquakes and tsunamis are a constant threat. Signs of the devastating tsunami that hit the island in 2009 are still visible, in the form of wrecked buildings and scars on the landscape. Be sure to familiarise yourself with safety and evacuation procedures at your place of residence.

Although we were not particularly bothered by mosquitoes and insects on our holiday, thanks to the insect grilles on our villa’s windows, insect repellent is recommended. Samoa does experience occasional outbreaks of virus-borne diseases such as dengue fever. We strongly recommend that you check your government’s travel advice for up-to-date information, as failure to follow any guidelines they offer can impact your travel insurance.

Samoa’s lagoons are perfect for swimming and kayaking. That said, strong currents do still affect them and can be dangerous. So be sure to follow any safety directions given by local proprietors or your resort staff.

Where to stay

Samoa offers a wide choice of options, from waterside resorts to modest hotels and private rentals. If you like to be close to the action, choose somewhere near the capital. If your purpose is simply to chill out and indulge in a little pampered R&R, choose a resort. We stayed in Seabreeze, a top-end resort tucked into a scenic cove on the south coast. It was beautiful, but remote, which might not suit everyone.

We are affiliates of Booking.com which offers a simple way to search for and book the best deals. Should you use any of our links, we receive a small commission – at no extra cost to you – which helps us to keep this site going. Here are some suggestions with links to the site.

Seabreeze Resort, Aufaga

Gorgeous boutique adults-only resort on the south coast of Upolu. There’s a pool bar, lovely gardens and grounds, a private beach and a restaurant serving delicious food. We stayed in their Honeymoon room which had sea views on 3 sides. Staff were great and we would definitely stay again.

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Sheraton aggie grey’s

This lovely colonial-style hotel, built in 1930, has been re-furbished and offers luxurious accommodation in Apia. The hotel is family-friendly and offers 2 pools and 3 restaurants. You can choose a standard hotel room or a traditional fale bungalow.

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Savaii Lagoon Resort

This boutique resort is a great choice if you decide to stay on the island of Savai’i. It has a lovely beach-front location, air-conditioned bungalows and an on-site restaurant and bar. You’ll enjoy the stunning sunsets and Wednesday cultural night.

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Final thoughts

Samoa is a great choice for a tropical paradise holiday. Far less developed than other Pacific countries such as Fiji, there’s still time to discover it before mass tourism arrives. You’ll enjoy an authentic Polynesian cultural experience as well as a relaxing break in a beautiful place.

If you’re interested in the Pacific Islands, check out our Oceania page for more posts on this fascinating region.

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