The glittering isle of Skye – perfect in any weather
Autumn is a fantastic time to visit Scotland, especially Skye.
The countryside blazes with colour, and the shorter, darker days lend themselves well to the warm cosiness of a pub fireside. And, hopefully, the weather is not yet bad enough to disrupt your travel plans or your exploring of the many delights of this wild and beautiful country.
Winter is also a great time to go. The hills are covered in snow, and you can enjoy a wee dram at the bar while listening to live traditional music.
I was fortunate enough to spend 4 years in Scotland as an undergraduate, and always love returning to visit. My Kiwi husband has ancestral roots there and loves it as much as I do.
over the sea to skye
A couple of years ago we took a trip to the Highlands and spent a few days on the enchanting isle of Skye. My account of its captivating beauty won me first prize in a travel writing competition, which I owe as much to the island’s evocative landscape as to my own abilities. My entry wrote itself! I’m reproducing my piece below.
“Skye was dark, broody and mysterious when we arrived there from the mainland. Thick grey cloud smudged the outline of the mountain tops. Drizzle stroked our cheeks as we sought sanctuary in the Eilean Iarmain Hotel, where we were to spend the next few nights.
Inside, lamps glowed and log fires crackled. Smokehouse fare tantalised our nostrils. We settled in at the bar and chatted to the other refugees from the weather: a friendly mix of locals, wedding guests and international visitors. A tasting session of the local whiskies proved to be the perfect way to spend a damp Saturday afternoon.
Camus Cross
Later, we ventured out to walk the scenic mile or so to the village of Camus Cross. Rowan berries and rose hips, red as ripe tomatoes, lined our path. Water dripped from moss-draped trees. Mountain streams tinkled and splashed their way downhill. Crows cackled. The air was thick with the aroma of damp peat and vegetation.
Down on the beach, kelp squelched and bladder wrack popped beneath our feet. Occasionally, the sun pushed through the mist like a torch-light, spectacularly illuminating a hillside. Multiple shades of green, mottled with vibrant heather and flecked here and there with gold and brown, were mirrored in the bay.
By the time we returned to the hotel, mist was beginning to rise from the nearby fields, and a piper was serenading the bride and groom. Our day ended with a delicious fish and chip supper.
Dunvegan Castle
Next morning a layer of low cloud still hung protectively over the glassy bay as we headed north to Dunvegan. The mist and heavy rain cleared just as we arrived at the dramatic castle. Its dazzling gardens were still abundant, in September, with colourful plants and floral displays. Perfect lawns glittered with dewdrop crystals, broken only by an occasional footprint.
Returning later to Eilean Iarmain, blazing sunshine revealed to us a very different Skye – pristine and perfect – through the steamy windows of the bus, as giggling schoolgirls taught us all about Skye Dancing.”
Our bespoke Scottish holiday was arranged for us by McKinlay Kidd, whom we would highly recommend.
Portree
My competition entry had a word limit, so I couldn’t say everything there was to say about beautiful Skye. Another day out we enjoyed was to the colourful capital, Portree. The town nestles round a bay, with colourful cottages overlooking the harbour. We watched fishermen bringing in their catch. You can take a boat trip around the harbour.
WHISKY
I mentioned earlier that we enjoyed a whisky-tasting session at our hotel. One of the bonuses of staying at the Eilean Iarmain (see ‘Where to stay’ below) is that it happens to be the base of the Gaelic Whisky Company. Tastings of whisky and gin are complimentary between 7.30pm and 9pm most evenings.
Skye is known for one famous brand of whisky in particular – Talisker, which we love. Alas, we didn’t get to visit Talisker, though this is possible. You can book tours such as whisky and chocolate tasting (definitely one for me). Or you can attend a cocktail masterclass. Tours run all year except between 9-24 November inclusive, when annual maintenance is carried out.
Accommodation
Your choice of where to stay in Skye will depend on what kind of holiday you’re after. If you want to have the amenities of a town, then Portree is a good choice. If you are looking to chill out in a remote, wild, beautiful setting – as we did – there are some great options.
Eilean Iarmain Hotel
We stayed here and loved it. The hotel is located in the south of Skye, overlooking the Sound of Sleat. Our room was in the garden annexe, away from the noise of the main building and closer to the waterfront. Lovely ambience and great food.
CUILLIN HILLS Hotel
Guests love everything about this top-rated hotel overlooking Portree Bay. They especially mention the large rooms, cosy atmosphere and great food. The hotel has lovely views of the bay and the Cuillin Hills .
FLODIGARRY Hotel
Located in the north of the island looking across to the mainland, Flodigarry has the air of a country house. Guest rooms are available in the main house or in the 18th century Flora Macdonald cottage. Guests love the location and the breakfasts.
Note: the above links are affiliate links. If you book any of these hotels via our links, we will receive a small commission. There is no extra cost to you.
GETTING AROUND
As we were relying on public transport for our holiday, it was great to have McKinley Kidd organise our travel and transfers for us.
We had spent a few days in Inverness previous to our Skye trip, so we travelled from there to Kyle of Lochalsh by train. This was a lovely scenic journey, which we really enjoyed. Travelling time was around 2 hours 40 minutes. From Kyle of Lochalsh, a taxi picked us up and took us over the bridge – rather than over the sea – to our hotel.
Although buses are limited, we did use them. The best thing to do is to ask your hotel reception about local routes. Our hotel staff told us about a bus route that stopped around 15 minutes’ walk away, which was really useful. Another option is helicopter – which some of the wedding guests at our hotel had booked. That would be an awesome way to travel to Skye! ExecAir and Luxury Concierge Scotland offer this.
At the end of our holiday, we were transported to the ferry terminal at Armadale. The ferry took us to Mallaig, where we were due to board the train to Glasgow. The ferry is operated by Caledonian MacBrayne.
Reading material – entertainment for wet days
Marion Todd’s gripping crime thrillers are set in the atmospheric Scottish town of St Andrews. Available in hard copy and Kindle edition. You can find out more about Marion on her web site and get a taste of her writing too!
For more posts on Scotland and the UK, see our Europe Page.
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What a gorgeously rich introduction to the most magical of Isles. I now want to visit immediately. My son climbs there regularly and this year ran the Trotternish Ridge hill race, starting at the iconic Quiraing.
And thank you for mentioning See Them Run. I’m so glad you enjoyed it. I’d love to read an account of your time studying in St Andrews.
Thanks Marion, wow I’d like to watch that race. And yes I loved the book! Read it in a day because I couldn’t put it down, much to my husband’s amazement – he’s never seen me do so much reading in one day. St Andrews will definitely feature in a future blog post. Lots of great memories and it’s such a fantastic place to visit.